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Old 01-19-2007, 06:42 PM   #1
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Default Hinges or tape?

I fly only park flyer's and was wondering what most people use on foam for hinging control surfaces. Also what do you use when using wood and foam(I am using balsa for ailerons on a estarter)
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Old 01-19-2007, 09:57 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by phaz View Post
I fly only park flyer's and was wondering what most people use on foam for hinging control surfaces. Also what do you use when using wood and foam(I am using balsa for ailerons on a estarter)
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I cut up old floppy discs and use them for light weight hinges.

Foam or balsa. And the price is right.

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Old 01-20-2007, 09:54 AM   #3
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Ive used both and really they both work equally well. The tape is a little scary because it doesnt stick to some types of foam all that well, but if you use good hinge tape and prep the surface well you'll be fine. The tape also doesnt give you an exact same amount of deflection up and down, but for a park flyer it doesnt matter really. Hinges are quite a bit trickier to install properly, but once your good at it they cant be beat for my money. Their are many other types of hinging, do a search on "hinge" and you'll have all the info you need. Good luck!

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Old 01-20-2007, 11:16 AM   #4
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medical bandage tape... any drug store has it.. its woven nylon or cotton with adheasive... light and strong.. great for foam (cant speak to much for balsa)

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Old 01-20-2007, 04:23 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by phaz View Post
I fly only park flyer's and was wondering what most people use on foam for hinging control surfaces. Also what do you use when using wood and foam(I am using balsa for ailerons on a estarter)
Thanks phaz
Hello Phaz, I normally use CA hinges, feel that you get less servo resistance than a tape job when the surface is at extreme deflection. also more consistant centering when the surface returns to center. Why are you using balsa for your ailerons? I have an e-starter with foam ailerons, and a 3d servo arm, and it rolls great.
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Old 01-21-2007, 01:06 AM   #6
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I do the mini-hinges from Dubro. NO GLUEING is needed.

Bevel, round or leave square the foam edges. Mark on the STRONGER part where you want the hinges. Draw a STRAIGHT line the full length. Make the slots a 1/4" wider than the hinge. NO MORE than that if possible.

ONLY use a small or thin EXACTO blade to make the slots.

The slots must be in a straight line to work easily. You can ANGLE the flat blade to the left or right a lot. As long as the visable top of the cut is lined up straight on the straight line, you did it perfectly. What happens out of sight has NO EFFECT.
Carefully slide all the hinges into the slots. Make a straight line on the other piece. Lay the piece with all the hinges against the other piece. mark where the slots go. leave 1/8" extra on each side of a slot. Cut the straight slots on the line. CAREFULLY!! Push a little bit, about 1/8" of each hinge into the cut slots. Start at one end and go toward the other end.
repeat until hinges are set nicely. As you flip the surface up and down you will also notice how snug the hinges are holding everything. NO GLUEING.

If you want to paint the surfaces, pull out the hinges and put them back after the paint is dry. Piece of cake to keep the hinges working perfectly.

A benefit is any tail damage is too simple to repair with this press in-friction hold way of joining the surfaces. This works on the larger sizes to. My 6' flying boat has 30 + flights and no hinge movement. The boat has 6 hinges/ surface. Small 2' gets 4 hinges/ surface.

The forces that pull the hinges APART are 0.

If they start to seperate too often, Glue them in, THEN.
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Old 01-21-2007, 02:22 AM   #7
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ive used packing tape, milk jugs, floppy disks, and factory henges. the packing tape was more for a quick fix at the flying field...

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Old 01-21-2007, 03:18 AM   #8
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For small non-3D, I like blenderm medical tape. For larger planes up to about 45" wing span I use ca hinges and blenderm to cover the gap. Yet to have a problem with either.

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Old 01-21-2007, 01:43 PM   #9
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I use Hockey tape quite often. Give it a stroke with a Monocote iron for an even better bond. On the bigger ones I use Robart hinge points.

Gord.
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Old 01-21-2007, 06:39 PM   #10
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Yeah I forgot to mention using your sealing iron on the tape. I always run my iron over my hinge tape and it does make a difference.

I'm wondering how many of our members even know what hockey tape is Go Canucks Go!

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Old 01-23-2007, 12:12 AM   #11
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I use 3-M Blenderm Tape that you can get from B P Products. It works real well on Foam.
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Old 01-23-2007, 12:29 AM   #12
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I just ordered the blenderm tape.
Thanks phaz
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:18 AM   #13
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Default Tape For Hinges

I've been flying electrics for about 5 years now and some of my glow 40 size plane's I use Scotch brand Number 600. It has worked just fine.
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Old 03-15-2007, 07:46 PM   #14
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Default Hinge tape

Would someone please post a step by step on how to apply tape hinges or film hinges on control surfaces? I searched the group and didn't find a how to. I bought a hing slotter and it will not work on my mini telemaster. First build in over 40 years, lots of fun and something to do this winter.

Thanks Paul
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Old 03-15-2007, 10:19 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by BobbyDog View Post
I'm wondering how many of our members even know what hockey tape is
I give up what's Hockey Tape?

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but rather to skid in sideways totally worn out shouting, Holy Crap... what a ride.
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Old 03-16-2007, 09:08 PM   #16
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Its the tape that you use to wrap the handle portions and the heel of the stick. If youve ever seen a hockey stick, that knob at the top of the stick is made with hockey tape. Its a white fabric tape. Super sticky too.

How to apply hinge tape:

If its foam I lightly sand the edges where they tape will go, blow it off, then I roll up some tape on my finger and "dab" it along where I sanded to make sure there is no dust left. If your plane is balsa with covering, you have no worries.

Make sure you have the leading edge of the control surface sanded to a 45 degree bevel. The trailing edge of the horizonal stabilizer etc is left square.

What I do is bring the two halves together and use something like T-pins or toothpicks to put in between to keep the same gap for the whole length.

I use small temporary pieces of tape at the ends to hold the two halves together pinching the toothpicks in between. Just make sure that you leave room in between toothpicks to put down some tape.

Then I pull off about 3 or 4 inches of tape and place it along the hinge line between toothpicks. Once that piece of tape is down, you can remove the toothpicks in that area. Then I pull off some more tape and keep going in that fashion untill you get to the end. Just make sure you remove the small temp piece of tape at the end when you can.

After I've got the whole hinge line done, I pull out the covering iron and run over the tape a few times to make sure its stuck well.

Then I pull out the CA (make sure you use foam safe if needed) and give a drip every inch or so along the edges of the tape on both sides. I grab a toothpick and spread the CA along the tape line. I doubt many people do this step but I always have and have never had any tape lift on me ever. Personally I think its most important when using tape on foam.

I dont have any "build" pictures to show but heres a few that are already done. I'm not that great at explaining things so hopefully someone else will help out if you still dont get it. Good luck!

Bob


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Old 03-17-2007, 01:06 AM   #17
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Hi Adam;
The hockey tape I have is a clear, heavy, vinyl tape, but stickier than H### as you say. Just a different type.

Gord.
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Old 03-17-2007, 01:37 AM   #18
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3 1/2" floppy discs. The circular plastic disk inside makes fine hinges.

Oops. Someone beat me too it.
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