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Old 02-25-2007, 10:23 PM   #1
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Default Goldberg .40 Shoestring Racer

Hi All,

Well, I finally finished the Shoestring!! Here is a rundown with some photos.

Santa got me this vintage kit off Ebay this Christmas and I stopped everything and cleared the workbench for it. I probably started it on the 26th! Anyway, The build was reasonably straight forward but there was a lot of detail work. Also, the E-convert was a bit interesting and posed its own problems. Well, Here we go... To start off, here are a few photos of the original.


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Old 02-25-2007, 10:38 PM   #2
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Default Fuselage

The Fuselage construction is nothing too exotic. The idea is to build up lots of wood and then sand the couture. The top corners have long triangle stock on the inside so when you sand it round, you have plenty of material in the corner. That make sense? Anyway, the problem with that is that the woods are different densities as is the glue so it is difficult to get a really smooth, rounded couture. This is a sort of mid wing model so the top of the fuse over the wing is actually mounted to the top of the wing. The fuse is constructed as one piece and then this top section is then cut out and additional formers are added along the mating surfaces. It is a real education to see how some of the older kits were designed. I really wanted to use the original methods if nothing else then to learn some different ways to construct all the different parts.

I also had to think ahead for the motor and just how I was going to access it. Originally, I thought I could make the very front ring behind the spinner removable and that would allow me to get to the motor, but those E-Flight motors are really big! I finally decided that I would have to make to entire cowling removable for the firewall forward. This posed an interesting challenge as to what to do with the cheek cowls... You'll see how I got around that. I wanted them to be functional to help cool the motor/ECS/Batt. I also beefed up the firewall a bit. That motor is pretty serious and the model will be a bit over powered so I thought it best.


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Old 02-25-2007, 11:04 PM   #3
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Default The wing

The wing is typical vintage design with a sheeted leading and trailing section with that cool curving at the wing tip. Speaking of the tip, the washout is built into the structure of the wing through the wing tips. They are fully sheeted and the trailing edge is blocked up a bit while the sheeting is attached. Worked pretty well and won't loose its shape as the covering stretches. So, the big deal here is the ailerons. They are standard outboard ailerons and the plans call for torsion rods. Now, I really wanted to build this as designed, but torsion rods? -- that are not co-linear with the aileron hinge line? Hmmm... Well, on the other hand, I REALLY didn't want servos hanging under the wings or even control horns spoiling the super sleek look. So, while I was poking around the local hobby store, I found a pair of control surface actuators that are completely internal to the wing and work in a push-pull fashion with a ball link connection. The push pull works in the long direction of the wing and the large "paddle" that inserts into the aileron wags up and down. They are pretty cool! A bit stiff and I still had the issue of some sort of a linkage to the servo. The wing is too thin for the servo to be mounted internally so I finally decided on a flexible cable. Seems to work well. The trick is to lock down that sheath well, but the servo doesn't complain and the look it great!

Also, I beefed up the dihedral bracing a bit to be safe and built it with the scale angle - The wing is joined so that the top surface is flat and the wing's taper becomes its dihedral. That should make it sporty! The original design calls for a "break-away" mounting of the wing in which the wing is attached from the bottom and is screwed into a ply rectangular mount that is then mounted to the fuse interior. In the event of a less than stellar landing, the ply piece would fail and release the wing. Well, I think this was before nylon bolts and since I will have to remove the wing for transport, I
decided to simplify this a bit and mount from the top with two nylon bolts in the back and two hard wood dowels in the front.


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Old 02-25-2007, 11:24 PM   #4
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Default Initial assembly

Actually, before the assembly, because the tail fins are just solid balsa slabs, I modified the horizontal stab and elevator a bit to lighten them by cutting out the inner material and replacing it with bracing. Turns out that was not necessary as the initial balance tests came out nose heavy, and that was without the battery! Oh my... That was a first! It was a good thing that I waited to check the CG before I mounted the servos because it turned out that the battery had to be right where I was going to put the servos. There is a hatch underneath in the nose to get the battery in and out and it just so happens that the bottom air scoop mounts right on it. So,... I hollowed out the scoop and it is now also functional and can direct air right to the battery. Pretty sweet!

A word about the wheel spats... The kit contains die-cut parts to build the spats and also a set of plastic spats of which my kit contained only one. I was bummed and wrote the seller who claimed the kit was complete. He asked what he could do to make it right so I did a search and it turns out that the discontinued Great Planes ARF spats are the same size. Also, the replacement parts are still available! The seller agreed to buy me a pair and I was off and running. What a great guy!! Anyways, as an added bonus, they are already painted! They are fiberglass with no holes so I had some decisions to make as to how to mount them. I finally decided to cut a slot, add a ply internal stiffener and sandwich them between the aluminum gear and the axle bolts. That way, I can remove them easily at the field without removing the wheels. This has been a bit of an issue with the SuperSportster Bipe's spats. My flying "fields" are just that...

I also added an after-market tail wheel...


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Old 02-25-2007, 11:46 PM   #5
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Default Covering and trim

For the covering I really wanted to try something other than Monokote. My friend Jerry at the hobby store suggested I try Ultracote so I decided on "Cub" yellow and "Missile" red. That Ultracote is really fantastic! It goes on so smooth, and can be pulled up and re-applied without leaving you with a color stain and clear film. It is a dual temp film that attaches at a lower temp and shrinks really well at higher temp. Really terrific stuff! Just a pleasure to work with. Strangely enough, the red was a bit different from the yellow. It had "Oracote" printed on the paper (not plastic) backing so it may have been a bit different. It didn't work quite as well as the yellow but it was still way better than Monokote. I'll have to ask Jerry about that... Luckily, the model is mostly yellow with red trim. The kit still had the original decals, but they were not in the best of shape. So, I scanned them and touched them up a bit in photoshop. Then I printed out the numbers and letters and used them as a template to cut out red trim. The "shoestring" script on the cheek cowls took a while, but it looks cool. Oh, also I noticed that the decals have a white field on the "16"s and such whereas the original markings have a yellow field. I imagine this was because it would be so hard to match the decals color and a clear decal isn't really all that clear. That actually made it a bunch easier for me as the trim was all one color. As for the small detailed markings, I have ordered "make your own decals" ink-jet sheets and I'll just use my scans to print out the original graphics on the decal paper and add them later.

The canopy had to be painted yellow on the back half so I did find some Cub Yellow "Lustercote". I masked off the clear part and gave it a go. Results? HORRIBLE!!! Stupid paint… not only did it not cover worth a darn, it totally distorted the plastic! It was ruined. Not a happy day. So, What I did was to cut off the distorted part and build a balsa replacement. It actually turned out pretty well. And, I was able to cover it giving it a 100% color match. I also tried painting the landing gear. That also cacked. I couldn't believe it... I have the worst luck with paint... Well, anyway, All I had to do was to cover the gear and it looked awesome and matched as well... Whoo Hoo!


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Old 02-26-2007, 12:03 AM   #6
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Default Look Ma, It's an ARF!

Ok, so now is the time of final assembly. This is pay back time for all the corners I cut when I was tired and thought that the fit was "pretty good"...

The big issue here was the cheek cowls and the cowling. I needed it all to be removable so I could get to the motor, but I didn't want it coming off in flight! I used four magnet pairs to get twice the strength so the cowl was secure. I really wanted to mount the cheek cowls to the fuse, but then, because of the curve of the cowl, I wouldn't be able to get the cowl off. Well, that left mounting them to the cowl instead. This worked out pretty well actually. I also had to make sure they were sealed so that the air flow would be diverted into the cowl and to the motor and not just lost through the gaps. It took a bunch of tries and a bit of head scratching, but I got the first one (left) on and all fit great! I was psyched so I set out on the right side. That looked good too, but after I sealed everything all up and tried the entire assembly, it was waaaay off. Doh!! I had to cut it off and try again. Second times the charm as that seemed to fit and finally, it was all set. Now, the prop is off-set 1 degree right and one down so that front plate really should be in line with the spinner. It is darn close and I think I can live with it after hours of futzin' with it. Boy, I tell ya, the building was the easy part, but the alignment was a super bummer. Maybe I could have built things a bit more precisely, but a lot of the construction is adding lots of extra wood and sanding it into submission so things can go a stray easily...


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Old 02-26-2007, 12:10 AM   #7
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Default Final photos

It was about 40deg out side but the light was good so I took some photos out on the patio. She sure is a looker! You can't argue with those lines, huh? Looks just like a 1950 sports car. Great vibe! Now all I have to do is get up the courage to actually fly!!!

Thanks,

Franny


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Old 02-26-2007, 12:41 AM   #8
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Hey Franny,
Looks awesome! What a great build you have done.
Good luck with your maiden....

Bruce
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If it ain't broke, I'll fix it till it is.
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Old 02-26-2007, 12:45 AM   #9
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Default

Hi Franny Great looking Plane, I remember those as a Control Line model when I was growing up, and I think I may have had one too, If you are having a bad time with paints, try Krylon Short Cuts, its the best ever, works on foam, plastic ,wood you name it, and gives a nice shiny surface, when using on foam, use thin coats, that works best, here is a link to the paint, Take care, Chellie

http://www.misterart.com/g1014/Krylon-Short-Cuts.htm
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Old 02-26-2007, 01:06 AM   #10
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Hi Franny Its me again On your DR1 in your avatar, where is the CG at, I built one from scratch, and need a approx CG location, I am also waiting for my digital camera to come in so i can make a video of the maiden, Thank you, Chellie

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...744#post141744
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Old 02-26-2007, 01:36 AM   #11
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Hey, Thanks Bruce! I'll get lots of photos!

Chellie: Thanks for the info on the paints. I have tried the krylon latex and it is not too bad... Oh, that CG? It is just aft of the bottom wing leading edge. Probably nose heavy is better than tail heavy... Good luck with that!!

Thanks,

Franny
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Old 02-26-2007, 01:44 PM   #12
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Franny, nice write up, again nice plane. You know the lines of the model seem to be more streamlined than the original.

I used Ultracote on mine and I agree the red was deffinately harder to use. But still way better than Monocote.

From your pictures I see plenty of air inlet, where does the air exit?

Good luck on the test flight.
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Old 02-26-2007, 06:49 PM   #13
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Hi pd1,

There are a couple of large holes in the battery hatch to exaust the air. This has worked well for my other models and also give me a place to get my fingers in to remove the hatch. I'll keep an eye on the temp on the first few flights to be sure all is staying cool.

Interesting about the red, huh? I wonder just what the difference is. Anyway, I won't be buying Monokote any time soon unless I just can't find some exotic color.

I think it is amazing that the original was garage built! That must have been a scarry first flight... What did they run? an 85hp engine? and they managed 200+MPH? Outstanding!

Oh, upon re-reading there were a few typos... I went a head and patched them up.

Thanks again,

Franny
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Old 02-27-2007, 12:59 AM   #14
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Franny, the first one was only 85 hp. I used to fly one with a 100 hp Continental with a cut down prop and a little port work, it would do over 230 straight and level.
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Old 02-27-2007, 01:05 AM   #15
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Holy Cow! Really? That is amazing! Hard to believe you could get the prop speed. That must have been one heck of a ride! Any photos?
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Old 02-27-2007, 01:39 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Franny View Post
Holy Cow! Really? That is amazing! Hard to believe you could get the prop speed. That must have been one heck of a ride! Any photos?

I've got a few photos.

This is the paint job of my model.


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Old 02-27-2007, 08:11 PM   #17
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That is great! It must by like a flying a little go-kart! Your model is superb! what a nice finish. Great job on those cheek cowls. Not an easy part to get right. What size motor are you using? Batts? Does it fly like the original?

f
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Old 02-27-2007, 08:46 PM   #18
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Just an update... I weighed the finished product with battery (so, ready to fly) and it came in right at five pounds. The battery weighs 12oz. The plans call for 4.5-5lbs so it looks like I sneeked in just under the wire. This is the first Power 46 I've used and the battery is new and new to me) as well so I need to do some testing this weekend before I can report on the wattage. I'm shooting for 550-600W with that 4000mAh four cell Lipo. I don't think that is too unrealistic...

Franny
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Old 02-27-2007, 09:14 PM   #19
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Franny,
Thank's for the detailed build and a great job well done on an old Icon of aviation (both full scale and modeling), They were awesome in looks as a CL and RC rendition.

One very nice thing today is when others search fro info on the Shoestring they well have the reference you posted, and will be an asset to building and converting thier own. WWWeb has made many things possible.

Wonder what the scaled P' factor will be on roll-out??
Enjoy' its a wonderful looking aircraft you built.

Enjoy the Thrill of Flight' Become an RC Pilot" ..Dan Z
........................................Share the Hobby Today
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Old 02-27-2007, 09:27 PM   #20
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Thanks R.C.! It really was super fun to build. I hope we will see more of these in kit form. I need someone to race against When I start a scale/semi-scale build I like to search for photos and then I print them out and cover my workshop walls with them. Now there are a few more photos to grab!

Thanks,

Franny
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Old 02-28-2007, 03:20 PM   #21
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Franny, my Shoestring came out at 3 pounds. I have a bp 2908-10 motor with a 2100 20c pack.

My first Goldberg Shoestring was about 5 pounds with old reed equipment.
Like you I opted for the larger wing, the plane is a floater, even at that weight.

For more details, here's the link to my build thread.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=621971
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Old 03-01-2007, 07:35 PM   #22
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Tha is so cool that you built it from the original full-scale. So yours is 1/10th scale... Yeah, I was hoping for a lower weight, but there just isn't much that I could do. - Maybe 4oz or so... That E-Flight motor is really heavy and so is the battery. I really thought they shipped a 60 motor in the 46 box it is so huge. Anyway, it helps with the tail heavy problem, huh. Have you flown yet? That really is a nice build. You are quite the craftsman! Let us know how it flys!

Franny
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Old 03-01-2007, 09:59 PM   #23
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Hi Franny
So, I'm not the only one who thinks bigger outrunners are - big?

All my really high powered electrics have used geared - inrunners? Much lighter than a 60 sized whizzyround motor and, in the case of the MaxCims, far more flexible by means of swapping a $5 pinion gear (much cheaper than buying a different wind outrunner, which might account for their rareity ). Marketting has got us by the nose, and even I'll admit that these little outrunners are kinda neat, but you can't beat a geared motor with a MEC Superbox for real flexibility.

You can also poke them up into smaller, narrower cowlings too.

After seeing some racer scale types fly over the years, it seems the trick is to focus on the wing size and forget the amount of fuselage that's involved. If you start thinking "That's not got much wing" as opposed to "better build that huge fuselage real light", you're on the path to RC misery.

I'm frantically trying to recall the name of Keith Shaw's mid-winged mid-wars racer - huge long fuselage and even retracts, but it flew just fine on a huge Astro cobalt and 30-odd big round jugs. It looked somewhat improbable, but Keith reckoned its only problem was the narrow UC track. I have a bunch of stuff on the Wittman Bonzo ( http://www.airventuremuseum.org/collection/ ) - a similar shaped thing with an awful fuselage length someplace - all I need is some spare time and a "round tuit".

Whatever, we need more ingenuity!

Idle thought, from an old aeromodelling buddy of mine who is a far better aeromodeller than most of us - if you come across an old, out of production kit - copy all the bits and the plan, and preserve the kit as well as you can. Okay, it's fairly trivial, but an old kit that's not around any more, apart from the odd EBay appearance, is a little slice of our hobby's history. Chew up the plan building on it and then have a woopsy with the model, something irreplaceable has gone for ever.

Regards

Dereck
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Old 03-02-2007, 01:24 AM   #24
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Hi Franny, my Shoestring is actually 1/5 scale. It has a 4 foot wing, the full sized was 19 foot wingspan.

For comparison, the horizontal stabilizer on a Cessna 310 is 17 foot span.
The full sized was really small, I don't think I could ever fit in one again.

I had to fly that one without a seat, and bent over just to close the canopy.

I've always said I would rather be lucky than smart, and I was at the right place at the right time to do most of the test flying on that plane.

And back then, most important of all, I fit.

I'm waiting for better weather before I try to test my Shoestring.
I'll let you know how I make out.
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Old 04-11-2007, 05:24 AM   #25
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PD1,
Whose Shoestring was that, and was it ever raced? I have seen most of the Shoestrings that have a race history, but that one is new to me.
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