Franny

Hi All,

Here are some photos of Ron's (The Sky Sharkster) new Cessna 180. It was out for its second flight yesterday and I snapped a few photos.

I'll let The Sharkster fill you in on the details... What an awesome looking model! Flies great too! Great look in the air!

Thanks Ron,

Franny

Sky Sharkster

First off, I must thank Franny for her great in-flight photos, She did a fine job!
The model is the Mountain models/Laser Arts "Cessna 180";
http://www.mountainmodels.com/produc...f005863e26bad7
A very easy-to-build laser-cut kit, all balsa except for the carbon rods that reinforce the windshield posts. The kit includes all wood parts, carbon rods, laser-cut windshield and side windows, ply battery tray, pushrods and tubes, landing gear wire and wheels (including a tiny rubber tailwheel!) and goes together like a puzzle, the parts only fit one way, the RIGHT way. This includes the stab and rudder ribs, usually a chore to cut from strip stock. Using "fast" CA, I built the entire set of tail surfaces in about 1/2 hour.
Covering is Coverite MicroLite, red and silver with black trim and lettering.
The kit includes laser-cut ply control horns but I substituded DuBro nylon horns, personal preference. Also fabricated a flat lite-ply motor-mount for the outrunner I used, instead of the included "stick" mount.
Servos are HiTec HS 55's and the Rx is an FMA Direct FM-5.
Since this was a "Colorado" kit, I decided to use a motor from another Colorado vendor, Mile High RC. I've used their batteries previously and was very happy with the service, shipping and the batteries are performing fine. Here's the motor/esc combo, a "300" size outrunner for $39.00;
http://milehighrc.com/brushless300XT.html
The ESC is "Musical", plays a Classical tune when it's ready.
Also picked up (2) 2s 800mAh Lipos for power from Mile High RC.
The model flew fine for its maiden last week at Arvada Associated field but this week picked up a wing warp (covering "settling", this has happened before with lightly built models) when we had 90 degree+ temps. Still flew good but needed more trim than before.
RTF weight is 7-1/2 ounces, rudder/elevator/throttle. A FUN plane and very realistic in the air.
Thanks again, Franny!
Ron

Grasshopper

Great looking plane Ron and great photos Franny! What I like best is finally getting a picture of Ron so we have a face to put with all the very helpful posts he's given us.

Franny

And he just trimmed his beard...

alienx

Hey Ron, that's an absolute beauty!!! Good work Franny too!!

Franny

Yeah, Ron does some fantastic work!!!

f

Sky Sharkster

Hi Tom, Andy and Franny, thanks for the kind words! Glad to say I fixed the warp, it's ready for another flying session! Check out Mountain Models, they've got a couple of Warbirds using the same type construction, a "Hellcat" and "Lightning", lots of aerobatic and park models, too.
Ron

alienx

I took another couple of looks at your plane. The covering is amazing. I guess that's all overlapping pieces of different coverings? Very nice work!!

Sky Sharkster

Hi Andy, Thanks for the compliment, covering is one of my favorite "skills" in modeling, it's easy, pretty fast and when it's done, the plane is ready to fly!
The different colors have about 1/8" overlap, nothing is "double-covered" except the black trim. First I applied all the silver, on the wing this went from the spar back to the trailing edge, top + bottom. Then I covered the front of the wing back to the spar with red, as mentioned the red overlapped the silver slightly on the main spar.
Same on the fuselage, a silver "insert" pattern that was cut from construction paper, then the pattern was used to cut a right + left piece, this was ironed on the fuselage. Next I used the same pattern but made it the "outer" edge of the red pieces. Kinda hard to explain, hope it's clear. Ironed the red overlapping silver. Last, I cut 1/8" pinstripes from black covering, used the pinstripes to cover all the seams.
MicroLite + SoLite are so thin, opaque colors "show through" slightly on overlaps. That's why I used the pinstripes.
The "N" registration numbers are black MicroLite, cut out with Art Store stencils. I spray the covering with Windex before applying the letters, this helps the air bubbles bleed out. The iron makes a "hissing" sound with this method but it doesn't hurt anything.
Most of these techniques are the same with the CoverLite, but you have to brush on an adhesive first, it's not self-adhesive.
Ron

alienx

You have developed some skills!! I think the pattern is beautiful and very tasteful. But to be able to make that happen on a plane is amazing. I always wondered how people used a shrink film to make trim. I always figured it would shrink up out of position. But I guess if you heat it enough to stick it but not shrink, that might work?? I read about the different glue and shrink temps someplace.

Really nice.

Sky Sharkster

Well, I got a few more flights on the little 180 today, and it's quickly becoming my favorite "Sport" plane. No, it's not going to win any "LMR" contests and it's not very aerobatic, either. But it's FUN and relaxing, and looks great just buzzing around. After take-off, I walk back to my portable chair, sit down and guide the Cessna around the field, occasionally taking a sip of cold water, yak with the other flyers. Once in a while it will wander too far away, a bit of rudder and it comes back. Mainly I hold the transmitter and watch the plane!
That running track in Franny's photos is about 5-6 feet wide and this week I managed a couple of good ROG's and landings on the track. No steerable tailwheel, just rudder and a careful hand on the throttle, it wanders a bit but eventually the rudder brings it straight again, and off she goes! "Cruise" to maintain altitude is 1/3rd throttle and 1/2 throttle results in a constant, slow scale-like climb.
I'm running an APC 8 x 3.8 SF prop, as recommended for the "300" outrunner, with 2s x 800mAH LiPolys. Flight times have been 6-7 minutes and the battery is taking roughly 400mAh (at 1C rate) to re-charge, so I could likely fly longer.
About the only drawback is a lightweight model like this gets pushed around a bit by the wind, but the rudder always has command and since it's somewhat overpowered I can "force" it back upwind if necessary.
All in all, a very easy-to-fly, fun model, looks realistic in the air and the kit practically builds itself. I got the warps out and they've stayed out, so the trim is set and I'm happy!
Ron

alienx

Hey Ron, can you sweet talk Franny into some video??

Glad the plane is seeing some duty.

Sky Sharkster

Hi Andy, I'll ask Franny about it when she gets back, she's on vacation for a couple weeks.
By the way, did you see the new Mercury Adhesives ad? They claim lower fumes for the fast CA,, maybe make life easier for you...
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18708
Ron

alienx

Ron, that is a welcome option!!! I think I will try it out. Even the few joints I used the thin on yesterday have me feeling terrible today. I have to stay away from that stuff. Thanks for the link.

Chris Raymond

Dear Sky Sharkster,

I enjoyed reading your posts about the Mountain Models Cessna 180. Wow, you really put together a gorgeous plane !!!

I'm interested in building the kit and modifying it to have ailerons. I've built several MM models and they're wonderful planes. I have a dumbish question. Where does the battery go and how do you access the battery space? How big is the space?

Thanks and best.

Sky Sharkster

Hello Chris, Welcome to Wattflyer!
Thanks for the kind words about the Cessna, it's a great sport plane! I've heard of modelers putting ailerons on this model, but have never seen it done. Shouldn't be too hard as long as you plan it before the build, I wouldn't want to try to "retro-fit" them.
The battery tray is a long, narrow ply strip near the fuselage bottom, roughly underneath the wing. It is inset between the fuselage formers and the smaller LiPos fit fine. It is long enough that my 800mAh 2C's have about an inch fore + aft movement for CG adjustment. There's move room available if you change the RX location, but I didn't have to do that on mine, the CG came out OK. The servo tray sits above this, and there's room under the servos (clearence) for the battery.
My battery packs are about 3" long, 1" wide and 1/2" thick.
The battery is accessed by removing the wing, one 4-40 bolt. Since the fuselage is a lightweight stringer and bulkhead "shell" it would be weakened considerably by cutting a separate hatch. Takes a couple of minutes to change packs, but I'm not in a hurry!
Good Luck with the Cessna!
Ron

FlyingMonkey

You guys are making me want to put together a.... dare I say it, Balsa plane!

Grasshopper

Balsa is best. Do it Monkey! You won't regret it. Only disadvantage is your hot glue gun won't work as well.

FlyingMonkey

I am worried, how will I talk to you guys with my fingers glued together?


My father had a Cessna 170, I wonder how different the 180 is. How hard to convert it to make it a replica of my father's plane.

Sky Sharkster

Hi Fred, the 170 is somewhat different from the 180, the most noticable feature is the shape of the tail surfaces, the 170 has the curved and rounded shape, the 180 is more of a straight taper. There is also a difference in the fuselage shape from the side, the 180 has a sort of "sway back" or downward curve to the top, behind the wing. The 170 has a straight taper, and I think the "greenhouse" is slightly less tall, the whole fuse looks more functional and streamlined.
The wings seem pretty similar, both have the Cessna double taper outboard and the same windshield notch in the center.
Here's 3-views of both, the 180 is # 5 down, the 170 # 21 down. I'm not trying to steer you away from the Mountain Models kit, just thought you would like to see the difference.
http://www.tmrcsailplanes.com/plans-and-patterns.html
Hope this helps!
Ron

FlyingMonkey

certainly food for thought, thank you.

Chris Raymond

Dear Sky,

Thank you for your well-thought out, articulately described reply. The kit is in the mail.

Best

chris

Sky Sharkster

Hi Chris, you're welcome, hope you enjoy the kit as much as I did! I'd be interested in hearing how the build goes, especially if you decide to add ailerons. It's a great flying plane and a 4-channel version would be even better!
Hello Fred, if you don't mind "scratch" building the tail surfaces, you could easily make a semi-scale 170 from the Mountain Models kit. Lowering the greenhouse and re-configuring the rear fuselage top might be more work than I would undertake, but hey, anything's possible! If you're not up for an entire scratch build (the plans are available on the page I linked) this seems like the fastest way to do it.
Good Luck, Guys!
Ron

JoeinWellie

Sky,

I know it's been a long time since the MM Cessna 180 build, but I bought one for my son and have just completed the fuselage and have a question. I have a very similar power setup as yours (300 sized outrunner). The motor will not fit in the hole in the nose cone. Bear with me, this is my first built up cowl of this sort.

Question time.... Did you use the rather flimsy looking stick mount and carve out the inside of the built up cowl. Or did you somehow fashion a rear mount.. I am tempted to screw the rear mount against the 'firewall' (from the inside of the fuse, if you can see what I mean) and carve out a nice big hole in the cowl.

Any advice would be most welcome.

Thanks.

Sky Sharkster

Hi Joeinwellie,
Glad to hear you're building this model, it's a great sport plane! I'm sure your son will enjoy flying it.
My 300 motor just fit into the round opening of the cowl, but if it didn't, I would see no problem enlarging the diameter. There's still plenty of stock in the cowl multi-laminations. If you have a "Moto-Tool" or similar, it will be a fast job, but a carving blade would work, also.
I fashioned a lite-ply (3/32") firewall and glued it directly to the front bulkhead. It was made to fit the "X" or cruciform mount that came with the outrunner. I believe it turned out to be a square shape with rounded corners and a hole to feed the ESC wires through, but I do remember I had to relieve the inside/back of the balsa cowl so it would fit flat against the original firewall.
I used small wood screws to attach the cruciform/motor to the ply, then lightly tacked the cowl on afterwards. Just a few drops of CA, in case I had to remove it later.
Before I did all this, I had the cowl completely sanded to shape. I didn't want to do any sanding there after the motor was installed, so as to not get balsa dust in the motor.
Everything worked out fine and I haven't had to remove the cowl. I can put a drop of oil onto the motor shaft and bearings with a toothpick from the front.
The model still flys fine, many flights and never a mishap. A fun build and a good-flying model, very relaxing and stable. Hope you enjoy yours as well!
Good Luck,
Ron