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Old 09-17-2007, 04:11 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
Looks great Paul! Geez you build fast. That looks like about 3 months of work for me and still wouldn't look that nice.
I feel the same way too. And it's not just the speed but the craftsmanship. Makes me want to build a sheeted model now!!
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Old 09-17-2007, 04:23 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
Looks great Paul! Geez you build fast. That looks like about 3 months of work for me and still wouldn't look that nice.
Tom, Thank, but I've seen your work.

It would look that nice, probably nicer.

Paul
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Old 09-17-2007, 04:28 PM   #28
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Andy,
A sheeted airplane is definately not more difficult than a stick model.

It's only different.

Your first stick model looks fantastic, much better than my first one.

I am not better at this than anyone else.

I have been doing it a long time,
and I try not to repeat too many of my mistakes.

But, truth be told I still make a lot of mistakes, you just can't see them in the pictures.


Paul
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Old 09-17-2007, 04:37 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by pd1 View Post
Andy,
A sheeted airplane is definately not more difficult than a stick model.

It's only different.

Your first stick model looks fantastic, much better than my first one.

I am not better at this than anyone else.

I have been doing it a long time,
and I try not to repeat too many of my mistakes.

But, truth be told I still make a lot of mistakes, you just can't see them in the pictures.


Paul
Simple truths!!

I like to look at your planes just the same. I haven't written off trying the P47 upsize this Winter. That should keep you busy!
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Old 09-17-2007, 04:43 PM   #30
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Just a side note Paul and don't want to get your thread off topic, but you need to fly down, pick up Andy and fly over to SEFF in May. You two really need to be there.

Tom
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Old 09-17-2007, 04:58 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
Just a side note Paul and don't want to get your thread off topic, but you need to fly down, pick up Andy and fly over to SEFF in May. You two really need to be there.
Tom, I've thought of that.
I have free use of a few airplanes, I just have to feed them.

At $4.80 a gallon, the twin uses 34 gallons per hour.
Five hours flying time each way.
Plus rent a car while there.

Nope, I'll drive.
I am planning on it, if everything works out I can pester you guys there.

The last time I flew anywhere for myself was to Florida, to watch a shuttle launch.
I recieved some special tickets for the launch, got to sit 2 rows behind Alan Shepard.

That was worth the trip, and the money.

Paul
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Old 09-17-2007, 05:06 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by pd1 View Post
Tom, I've thought of that.
I have free use of a few airplanes, I just have to feed them.

At $4.80 a gallon, the twin uses 34 gallons per hour.
Five hours flying time each way.
Plus rent a car while there.

Nope, I'll drive.
I am planning on it, if everything works out I can pester you guys there.

The last time I flew anywhere for myself was to Florida, to watch a shuttle launch.
I recieved some special tickets for the launch, got to sit 2 rows behind Alan Shepard.

That was worth the trip, and the money.

Paul
That would be great for you to be there. Now we just need to get Andy there too.

I bet a shuttle launch is way better in person than on TV.

Tom
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Old 09-17-2007, 05:35 PM   #33
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Tom, the shuttle launch is inspiring.

We sat three miles from the shuttle, when the shuttle launched the flag that was next to us moved from the blast.

You can actually feel the blast and the sound.

If you ever get a chance to go in person, don't miss it.

The best video of the launch is the IMax movie The Dream is Alive.
With surround sound it's real good, but it's not the same.

Paul


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Old 09-17-2007, 05:56 PM   #34
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I'll work on him. Maybe we just need a slower plane!
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Old 09-18-2007, 03:39 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by pd1 View Post
SJ, Yes I put the sheet in hot water for a few minutes.

I don't know how long though, usually I flex the balsa as I remove it from the water.
If it flexes well, it's done.

I have the plans Chellie, do you want them?

Mike Parsons has a short tutorial to setting the pictures up like this.
I'll see if I can find the link for you.
Try This one: http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...400#post273400
If you could post the plans, that would be Nice Thank you, Take care, Chellie
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Old 09-18-2007, 01:14 PM   #36
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Default Cheek cowls

I'm trying to get these done when taking a break from outside work.

Rough shaped cheek cowls
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Cheek cowl on for tets fit
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Cheek cowl carved and sanded.
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Old 09-18-2007, 06:02 PM   #37
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Default Cheek cowls on

A little filler here and there, make the ailerons and the structure is done.
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A little secret, I didn't use the kit.
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Made all the parts from the plans, and from the woodpile.


Paul


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Old 09-19-2007, 09:48 PM   #38
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Fabulous work Paul! Can't wait to see it in the air.

I agree about the sheeting... My SuperSportster Bipe called for no dihedral bracing... All the load was to be born by the center wing sheeting and a bit of fiberglassing. Um... I added some "real" braces and now I don't worry.

Great work as always.

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Old 09-19-2007, 10:20 PM   #39
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Very nice Paul. You've got some serious balsa inventory there.

Tom
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Old 09-19-2007, 10:57 PM   #40
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Thanks Franny, haven't seen you around in a while.

Have you flown your Shoestring yet?

I have a kit of a Klemm 25D, they join the wing panels together without any attachment to the spar at all.
Maybe we just over build them?


Paul
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Old 09-19-2007, 10:59 PM   #41
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Thanks Tom, I was getting pretty low and either I had to stop building, or buy more balsa.

I bought more balsa.

That's only the sheet stock, the big stuff I keep in the other room.

Paul
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Old 09-23-2007, 03:48 PM   #42
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Default Landing gear fairings

I really don't like aluminum gears, but on a scale plane the wire gear lacks a little.
If you just epoxy the balsa onto the gear leg it breaks off pretty quick.

Here's a quick way to add balsa fairings that won't fall off quickly.

Bend a small diameter piece of wire.
Wrap with a copper wire strand, I un braided some wire for the strands.
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After the solder cools cut wire to length and trim copper.
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Press the balsa onto the wire to make an impression.
Scoop out the impression a little further to allow the wire to be countersunk.
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Epoxy.
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Old 09-23-2007, 06:49 PM   #43
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Looks awesome Paul. I like the LG method.

I agree the wire gear leaves something to be desired in the aesthetics department, that spruces it up nice.

Do you then wrap the strut in covering material?

AMA#: 891791
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Old 09-23-2007, 07:01 PM   #44
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Gnasher, Thanks.
Yes I do cover the strut with covering.
But it really isn't necessary.

Paul
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Old 09-23-2007, 08:12 PM   #45
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That's a good looking plane!! I'm looking fordward to the covering.
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Old 09-23-2007, 10:32 PM   #46
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Andy, so am I.
I want it light, minimal paint.
Don't know what covering to use yet.

Paul
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Old 09-25-2007, 07:39 PM   #47
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Default Japanese Tissue

Decided I'd go for the lightest covering I could.
I started covering the plane with yellow Japanese tissue.

I picked yellow. A couple of coats of clear dope and a little red trim and it will be finished.

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Dull spots are from sanding



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Old 09-25-2007, 07:59 PM   #48
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As someone that has no sense of anything besides the shrink films, this tissue over balsa should be very interesting to see. How much weight savings over half ounce glass and resin do you think this might be worth?
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Old 09-25-2007, 09:24 PM   #49
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Andy, Here's a post by Ron, Skysharkster. He has the weights of all the coverings.
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...ring+materials
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Old 09-25-2007, 10:38 PM   #50
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Default Covering with Japanese Tissue.

Japanese Tissue is the lightest covering I know of.

It has a few quirks when covering so I'll try to remember all of them.
It is easier if you give the structure or sheeted area to be covered a couple of coats of dope first.
The dope under the covering helps to adhere the tissue to the plane.

Two methods of covering ; dry, wet.

Dry is only good over open framework.
You have to wet the tissue with water after covering to shrink it.
If you try to cover large sheeted areas dry, the tissue will have puckers that won't go away.

Wet will work over open framework and over sheeted areas.

1. Size the piece you're going to use about a half inch to one inch larger in all directions than needed.
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2. Determine the shiny side.
One side is glossier than the other. The glossy side is out.

3. Determine the grain.
If you are going over open areas the grain goes the long way. Span wise, not chord wise.
If you try to tear a piece of tissue, it will tear readily in one direction only, This is the direction of the grain.
It doesn't want to tear across the grain.

4. Lay your sheet out over the area to be covered.
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Wet the sheet with water, an atomizer works well.
You can wet the sheet then place it on the area to cover.
I have great difficulty doing it this way.


5. Once wet, work the wrinkles and excess water off the surface with your fingers. Use them like a squeegee.
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Be careful, once wet this stuff can get very fragile.

6. Once the wrinkles are out, start doping.
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Use thinned dope. Start from the center.
Brush strokes away from the center. So you don't "pull" the tissue in on itself.


7. While the dope is still wet use your fingers like a squeegee again, to make sure all the wrinkles are out.

8. Cut away the excess tissue. Dope the edges down and use your fingers to rub the edges flat.Click image for larger version

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9. After it's dry coat with a couple of coats of dope, sanding in between.
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The sanding will get rid of bumps and any rough edges.

This is the method I use. There are probably many other methods, this one works good for me.

Paul


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