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Scratchbuilding Tips, Tricks, & I Wish I Knew That Thread

Old 09-26-2008, 04:20 AM
  #201  
Bub Steve
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Originally Posted by proffcharlie View Post
Seems this mount gives people a lot of trouble to figure out. I'm talking about the Plastic Stick Mount type originally intended for brushed motors with reduction gears. A lot of "bargin" out runners are being supplied with a circular alum. base plate and one of these plastic mounts. The mounting method shown in the drawing below is how I have used these mounts. This method puts the motor shaft on the same plane in relation to the stick as when brushed motors are used and the plastic mount is actually very durable. After you modify the mount you can hack off the remainder of the plastic loop to gain clearance for a cowl and to reduce useless weight. Forgive the drawing being turned on its side please.

Charlie
I just dry-fitted one up to check it out,, Good One Charlie!!! your bub, steve
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Old 10-26-2008, 02:51 PM
  #202  
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I've had a couple Lipo's damaged in crashes, so I glued thin balsa strips on two sides. I haven't "tested" this yet but I'm hoping it will reduce the battery's damage in the next crash.
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Old 10-26-2008, 03:13 PM
  #203  
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Here's one I've never seen but I've been using it for the past 4 or 5 years now. I bought a pack of those small Teflon cutting boards to replace an old beaten up wooden one. The pack included a small 5 1/2" X 9 1/2" board. My wife promptly lost it however it mysteriously appears from time to time in my workshop when ever I need something to cut small part on. Works great at the kitchen table when she's not around. Picked up a pack of three for around 5 bucks.

Oh, they do have different colors so you could use yellow for ply, blue for balsa and red for what ever thus preventing cross contamination.
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Old 10-26-2008, 04:13 PM
  #204  
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Default Edge shaper

Guys here is one of my favorite tools. It consists of a small block of wood with a groove cut in it and a piece of sandpaper glued in the groove. I used a piece of wood approximately 2 1/2" wide by approximately 5" long. To make this tool (especially if you do not have a router) clamp two pieces of wood together and drill it down the center between the two blocks (makes 2 blocks that way). When you are done you will have 2 pieces of wood with a groove down the center of each block (or for those of you who have a router, just cut a groove down the center). Take some sandpaper (your choice of grit) and glue it to the groove (use a piece of dowel to force the sandpaper into the groove by clamping it in the vise). and VOILĄ! you have a tool for shaping the edges of you fins, rudders, elevators, etc. You can make several blocks with different sizes of groove widths. Give it a try, I'm sure you will like it. Martin
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Old 10-26-2008, 04:47 PM
  #205  
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Originally Posted by gfdengine204 View Post
I drink Crystal Light, and always keep the little plastic tubs the mix comes in for mixing epoxy. Nice and small, I always have a supply of them.
From post #14
I have a friend, really, its not me, who eats at Moe's. When he goes to the salsa bar he grabs extra little plastic salsa cups. They are about the same size as the Crystal Light cups.
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Old 10-26-2008, 10:26 PM
  #206  
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Default Tinting plastic

I have used this trick for years. If you want to tint something (canopy, goggles, windshield, etc) use this trick. Put some hot water (not too hot) into a bucket or container large enough to fit what you are tinting into. Add RIT dye to the water and stir. Drop your part in and wait. The longer it's in, the darker the tint. It's consistent and permanent. Martin
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Old 10-27-2008, 03:36 AM
  #207  
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Here is another one that I've used for years. The distance from the leading edge to the spar is lets say 3" straight line. However the total distance of the curved part of that distance on the rib is longer. I used to have a hard time getting my leading edge caps the correct size. One day while cussing up a storm, my wife looked at what I was trying to do and said," Try this." She handed me one of those material tape measures made of cloth. It is flexible enough to measure around that leading edge curve and provide the correct distance to size the wood. Needless to say I now keep two in my workshop.
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Old 10-27-2008, 08:17 PM
  #208  
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Originally Posted by starcad View Post
Here is another one that I've used for years. The distance from the leading edge to the spar is lets say 3" straight line. However the total distance of the curved part of that distance on the rib is longer. I used to have a hard time getting my leading edge caps the correct size. One day while cussing up a storm, my wife looked at what I was trying to do and said," Try this." She handed me one of those material tape measures made of cloth. It is flexible enough to measure around that leading edge curve and provide the correct distance to size the wood. Needless to say I now keep two in my workshop.
I use these Seamstress Tape Measures myself. I also found out that they can vary greatly in the way they're marked, especially the cheap plastic ones so be sure you check 'em against another trusted ruler or whatever to make sure how close it is to being right. Once your aware of the difference (if any) then you can adjust if you need to.

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Old 11-01-2008, 03:50 AM
  #209  
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Default Sopwith Dolphin

To scalercflyer: I'm interested in the plans you have for the Sopwith Dolphin. Could you let me know the scale of thes plans & how much you would need to reproduce the & send me a copy? Thanks in advance. Dan
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Old 11-01-2008, 06:13 AM
  #210  
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Default Plans

Dan, I would be happy to provide the plans for you! Sometime this week I will go to KINKOS or Office Max and find out how much the copying service is. Shipping will be standard rate. I will PM you on the costs. Glad to help! Martin
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Old 11-27-2008, 06:14 PM
  #211  
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Scalpel blades are sharper and seem hold their edge longer than Exacto blades.

Plus the flat handle won't roll off the table on you.

Frank
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Old 11-28-2008, 12:40 AM
  #212  
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Originally Posted by Murocflyer View Post
Scalpel blades are sharper and seem hold their edge longer than Exacto blades.

Plus the flat handle won't roll off the table on you.

Frank
How $$ are they and can you change the blades?
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Old 11-28-2008, 12:46 AM
  #213  
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I get mine from ebay. Although I don't like ebay, they are good for some things. $10 for 100 blades.

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories

Frank
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Old 11-28-2008, 04:10 AM
  #214  
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Thanks!
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Old 11-28-2008, 12:36 PM
  #215  
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Will those blades fit in a standard hobby knife handle?
They're a heck of a lot cheaper than the #11 blades.
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Old 11-28-2008, 12:54 PM
  #216  
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Originally Posted by Ribcracker View Post
Will those blades fit in a standard hobby knife handle?
They're a heck of a lot cheaper than the #11 blades.

That's exactly what I was wondering myself or if the handle would need to be modified somehow.
I was also looking to see if that seller or any of the others were offering decent handles when I came across a claim by a vendor that said eBay no longer allows payments to be made by any means other than PayPal
What the heck is that all about? I start looking around and sure enough all mention of checks & Postal M.O.'s being accepted as forms of payment is missing. Is eBay trying to commit business suicide?

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Old 11-28-2008, 12:55 PM
  #217  
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They will. They'll just slide right in. I use a scalpel handle though. It won't roll away on me.

Frank

Last edited by Murocflyer; 10-29-2013 at 05:06 AM.
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Old 11-28-2008, 02:05 PM
  #218  
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Default Cutting Blades

Hi Guys,
I've been following this discussion of blades + handles. Here's another supplier, not cheap but plenty of choices. They take Master Card, Visa, Discover, American Express, Money Orders.
Handles;
http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/CTGY/knife-handle-a
Stainless steel Scapel blades, 150 for $30.00;
http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/PROD/scalpels/BEU47
Ron
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Old 12-13-2008, 09:03 PM
  #219  
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You might laugh at this tip, but as I figured out my eyes were not as good as they once were. I went to the eye Doc and got some reading glasses and WOW now when I put them on to screw in that little servo screw or solder a bullet connector on, it's like looking through a magnifying glass. I can't believe the difference. Nor can I believe how bad my eyes were getting and I didn't even realize it.

Frank
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Old 12-13-2008, 09:46 PM
  #220  
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A year or so ago I had a special pair of reading glasses made up for work. I spend a lot of time at my computer which sits further away than my normal reading distance. That means normal reading glasses dont work so well, but its still too close for my normal glasses.

These new glasses are bifocals. The top half work well at medium distances - from well beyond arms reach down to reading distance. The lower section is normal reading distance and close in.

They are perfect for working on models because I can see whats lost in the clutter at the other end of the bench and still focus close in

By the way - getting old SUCKS!
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Old 12-13-2008, 09:48 PM
  #221  
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"I went to the eye Doc and got some reading glasses and WOW"

I've noticed the same vision loss over the last few years. The local drug store has "reading glasses" in 3 magnification levels for under $5. They do the trick.

Phil
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Old 12-13-2008, 11:46 PM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by phupper View Post
The local drug store has "reading glasses" in 3 magnification levels for under $5. They do the trick.
That's what I was gonna say. I've been using those for years for working on electronics even though my eyes check good.
Just a little extra magnification for delicate work. Nothing wrong with that.

I get mine from the dollar store though (;
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Old 12-14-2008, 02:15 AM
  #223  
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I use the reading glasses and a magnifying visor that I got at Harbor Freight for 10 or 15 bucks.
I put it on automatically when I'm at the bench and really rely on it.
I came upstairs with the visor on when we had some company a guest said, "Honey, he shrunk the kids!"
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Old 12-14-2008, 09:30 PM
  #224  
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Default Great knife and sharpener

I have every conceivable Xacto knife made but I find myself grabbing this old cheapo "Americanline" snap off blade knife you can buy at HOME DEPOT in their paint dept. It's $3 and I keep several throughout my shop and at the field tool kits. It's perfect for cutting Depron and FFF to build scratchbuilts.

For sharpening I use this Harborfreight blade sharpener ($8) that you simply drag the blade through to re-gain a perfect edge for cutting foam. It isn't that I don't want to replace the blades or I am too cheap, it's just so darn quick to put a edge back on a blade that it's just easier. Here is a link to the Harborfreight. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95984
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Last edited by Prof100; 12-15-2008 at 05:33 AM. Reason: added link
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Old 12-26-2008, 10:22 PM
  #225  
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Default And the tips keep coming

Maybe we can clean up the chatter and make this a sticky?

Here are a couple more.

When reaming out the hole on an APC prop, it's best to leave the center ring on the tree to drill it vs breaking it off and then trying to drill it in the prop. If you break it off, it will spin on you. I found this trick is better than CAing the ring in the prop to drill it.

The easiest and cheapest method for prop balancing is to buy $4 hand balancing and suspend it between two magnets.

Frank

Last edited by Murocflyer; 10-29-2013 at 05:06 AM.
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