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Old 01-08-2006, 08:17 AM   #1
Franny
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Default Dare DR1 Build

Hi Everyone,

Well, Santa had room for a Dare DR1 kit in his bag this year and I'm starting into it. I know "Watt_The?!" has built this and has a great video of it flying, but I though there might be some interest in seeing the kit go together.

Now, I'll preface this by saying I'm no master builder, but after looking over the kit, I think it is something I can handle. The instructions are pretty thin; like a paragraph for each major section, but it looks like all the parts are there and all the wood is laser cut.

There are two sheets of full size drawings, one for the wings and horizontal stab and the other for the fuse and rudder. The drawings look like they were done by hand and for the wings, only the right half's are drawn. The plans say to use cooking oil to make them translucent and build the left side from the opposite side of the plans. So,... I made complete copies of the plans before I got started at the local copy center just to be safe.

The first installment is the horizontal stab build. The plans call for laminating two 1/6"X1/8" balsa strips to produce those wonderful curves on the trailing edge. Well, I tried that a bit, even soaking the strips first with alcohol, but the radius is just too tight. so, what I did was to make a photo copy of the stab/elevator and then, using the monocote iron, transferred the design onto a 1/8" thick balsa sheet. This worked great. I cut out one for each side and I was off and running. Here are a couple photos of the horz stab and elevator hinged. Not a bad start.

Next are the wings. I'll keep you posted on my progress. Thanks for reading!

Franny


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Old 01-11-2006, 02:32 PM   #2
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Default

Franny
Be careful changing from curved strip to cut-out sheet for the curved tips.

Looking at the photos it appears that you have the grain of the wood going across the narrow section. This could make the tips weak and very vulnerable to breaking.
For easier bending of strip balsa, soak in household ammonia, (with care, and in the open air), or use very warm water, and use a pre-shaped former, thick cardboard etc. to bend the strips round, let it dry to shape before trimming and gluing. Also try to select the softer wood from the kit where bending is required.

Good look with your build, nice to see someone having a go, and not just assembling an artf.
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Old 01-11-2006, 05:35 PM   #3
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Default

Thanks for the advice! I was worried about the grain too so I coated the inside of the curves with thin CA and they are pretty strong now. Now that I think of it, I could laminate a single piece to the inside... Hmmm... That's an idea...

Ammonia! That's it! I was thinking alcohol, but your are right. Well, I still have the rudder to do as well.

The kit is proving to be a challenge. I'm building the wings now and I'll post pictures when I complete the top wing. I am building the wings flat (the plans call for dihedral) and will be adding ailerons as well. There is a lot of sanding and fitting of the parts and very little instructions and detail on the plans, so a bit slow going. I still have to think about how to control the ailerons... I'm not sure a servo will fit in the wing and I don't want to have it poking through the bottom of the wing. We'll have to see...

Funny you should mention the building V.S. ARTF. I just finished a Beech Staggerwing ARTF from Wattage. It is a very nice looking model and went together easily enough, but this DR1 is much more entertaining!

Thanks for all your help!

Franny
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Old 01-12-2006, 02:08 PM   #4
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Default

Franny

Might be worth looking at this link, its questions and answers on the Dr1.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=dare+dr1

Edit - Also

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=dare+dr1

Hope it helps.
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Old 01-12-2006, 07:41 PM   #5
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Default

Yea! Thanks! That does help. lots of pictures...

I'll still continue my posting of my progress. Mabye someone would be interested in the flat wing/aileron conversion. I hope to get more done this weekend.

Cheers!

Franny
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:09 PM   #6
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Default

Hi All,

I got the wings finished this weekend... I'll post pictures and do a write up a little later this week. Boy, nothing happends fast with this kit... It takes a lot of staring and hand gesters for some reason Anyway, I'll try to add a bit of detail on the mods.

Thanks, Franny
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Old 01-18-2006, 03:46 AM   #7
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Default

Originally Posted by Franny View Post
Hi All,
Boy, nothing happends fast with this kit... It takes a lot of staring and hand gesters for some reason
Thanks, Franny
3 wings is a lot of work. Actually 4, depending on how you look at it. Just finished a DR1 a few weeks ago. I spent a good while with all the mods on this 20" Guillows conv, such as CF rods notched into the wing LEs. The end result of this plane is worth it, however.


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Old 01-24-2006, 07:17 AM   #8
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Default Progress on the DR1... Top wing

Hi All,

Sorry for the lack of posts... I have been making progress. The next task was the wings. I started with the top wing and worked my way down. Now, I wanted to flatten the wing (no dihedral) and add ailerons. I think this actually made things easier. Since the wing didn't need to be broken in the center, I built the whole thing at once. I made copies of the right half drawings and oiled them to make them translucent. I then turned them over and taped them to the right half giving me a complete plan of the entire wing. One thing to note is that the right half on the plan contains a rib past the center so just something to be aware of when lining up the drawings.

For the top wing, I laid it out completely an then went back and cut out the ailerons. I spliced the top and bottom spars together at opposite ends for added strength. I added the supplied dihedral braces, but didnít sheet the center section. I donít think it needs it, but I did have to cut out three new ribs as the supplied ones are reduced for the sheeting.. I used appropriate thicknesses for the new trailing edge and the aileron. You can see where I marked one notch for the wing trailing edge and one for the aileron leading edge so I knew how far to cut back the ribs. I spaced the two apart by the width of a "tee" pin. The center part of the ailerons were a little strange in the plans and I ended up building them up a bit and sanding them to get the correct trailing edge profile. Here are a few photos: Iíll worry about the control linkage later, but Iím leaning towards a ďpull-pullĒ system.


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Old 01-24-2006, 07:29 AM   #9
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Default Middle and bottom wing

The middle and bottom wing were uneventful. Once again built flat with no break in the middle. I did sheet the bottom wing because it mounts directly to the bottom of the fuse. The 1/16" piano wire attachments for the middle wings were added later. They have to be adjusted to line up correctly with the fuse attachment points which are fixed. Oh, you don't want to forget to scallop those trailing edges... I also added a few gussets in the corners to sure things up a bit because I'm sure I'll never cartwheel this thing... A few photos:


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Old 01-24-2006, 07:40 AM   #10
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Default The fuselage

Ok, with all three wings out of the way, it was time to start on the Fuselage. After studying the plans, I figured out that you build the right side and then oil and turn the plans over and build the left side. That was a little confusing to me at first. Also, I spent a bunch of time looking at the rudder. It just doesn't look right to me... After staring a bit and looking at lots of pictures and profiles, I came to the conclusion that the tail end of the fuse is too tall. so, you'll see from the photos that I squashed it a bit. I still have to build the rudder at some point, but that should be easier to get right now.

Here are the two sides getting laid out and joined. I sanded down the very tail to get a stronger fit and added my little gussets I'm so fond of.


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Old 01-25-2006, 06:56 AM   #11
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Default A little break to build the rudder...

Well, since I squashed the fuselage a bit, I had to change the rudder outline. While I was at it, the shape of the rudder in the plans didn't look quite right. I read that others have modified it a bit too. I looked at lots of DRI rudders and finally decided on a shape. I used the soak the balsa strips method and it seemed to work. I still have to add the stingers and such but I think it is a good shape. More on the rest of the fuselage later...

Thanks for reading!

Franny


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Old 02-14-2006, 01:39 AM   #12
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Thumbs up

great stuff Franny!
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Old 02-17-2006, 02:39 AM   #13
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Default Dare Dri

Any more progress Franny? I'm going to refer to your pics and instructions when I commence to build my DRI (just bought one off of e-bay ). I plan to add airlerons and a pull-pull system. I appreciate your comments and pics. I'm sure it will help me to avoid some pitfalls. Martin

Never fly straight and level for more than 30 seconds in a combat zone. Just say no to red airplanes!
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Old 02-17-2006, 03:34 AM   #14
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Default

Absolutely... I have it covered with lots of picts all so far. I've been a slacker... I'll get more up this weekend. One thing I would mention... I used two different methods for the elevator and rudder curves: one was the method from the plans; soaking the balsa strips and bending around a form (rudder) and the other was to cut out the shape from a sheet of balsa (elevator). I think I like the flat balsa method better. The rudder warped pretty bad several hours after it was covered, but the elevator is flat as a board. Watch the grain if you build up the shapes. I should have paid more attention to that. I strengthened it with some thing CA and that helped, but I think it will be a fragile and I may have to rebuild it at some point. I'm also not super happy with my final rudder shape. Most full size replicas I've seen and have pictures of have an almost circular rudder yet the profile drawings I have look like it is a little squashed from the top. It would be really nice to have a true scale outline to go from. I think you will enjoy the kit. It gets a little nutty sometimes, but I think it is best to think of it as a suggestion and go from there. Add as much scale as you like.

I'll get more pictures up really soon.

Thanks,

franny
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Old 02-17-2006, 07:05 AM   #15
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Default Back to the Fuse...

OK, here are a few photos of the Fuselage and the assembly of the ca-pain-in-the-butt struts. You start by assembling the two lower wings and the interplane struts. then set the top win on the interplane struts and check the alignment. Go ahead and bend the struts per the plans, but be prepared for them to be off. They are designed for a wing with dihedral. Bend, bend and re-bend until they are right. I think they say in the instructions to mount them to the cross blocks and the wing and fit the blocks however they fall. That didn't really work for me... So, I set the blocks first and bend, bend, bend... At least now, they enter the fuse in the right place. Once all was aligned, I glued them to the blocks and capped them to make it official.

After all that, I sheeted with the 1/32" sheet provided. Bummer it isn't quite wide enough so I had to add little strips along each side. I also sheeted the faring from the middle wing mounts. I added the little rounding formers to the fuse sides and sheeted that as well cuz' I don't know what "bond" paper is and they did supply two sheets of 1/32" balsa.


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Old 02-17-2006, 07:20 AM   #16
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Default The Gear

Next is getting the landing gear happening. I noticed that in the plans that they have the gear struts attaching to the axel at the outside of the airfoil between the wings were as on the original the struts attach some what inside of the edge, so I re-drew it and bend/soldered accordingly. Also, the airfoil on the plans is quite a bit too small. Maybe they left it in the dryer too long... Anyways, that grew a bit as well... Check it out. Once all was aligned and such, I used thin copper wire, drilled a zillion holes in the gear mount cross pieces and threaded the wire round and round and round. After that it got some lovin' from the medium CA.


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Old 02-18-2006, 02:00 AM   #17
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Default Dri

Franny thanks so much for the info and pics! The tripe is by far my favorite fighter of WWI. I am looking forward to starting the kit. The thought of making another tripe a "red" one gives me a headache, so I thought I would cover it ala "Great Waldo Pepper". It is a most striking camo scheme if I do say so. I have included a shot of a model finished with the camo scheme. Tell me what you think. Martin




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Old 02-18-2006, 03:27 AM   #18
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Franny, beautiful work on the landing gear lashing!

looks like it's coming along....i know what you mean about bend, bend, bend....

Tim
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Old 02-18-2006, 08:13 PM   #19
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Hi Martin,

I totally love that scheme! Your link didn't work Sez I'm forbidden... Anyway I just watched that. It is one of the last chapters on the DVD... I have a DVD player set up in my work room hooked to an old computer monitor. I've been watching everything I have with airplanes in it; The Blue Max, Waldo Pepper, The Aviator, Memphis Bell,... I have Hell's Angels on order. Really fun! Anyway, I want to build a larger (50"-ish ) version and do it in that scheme. I noticed that AerodromeRC.com has a larger version in development, but it is on the back burner for now so I got their PT17 to hold me over. Oh, Oh! They have the wheel kits for our size Dr.1! I ordered a set with the PT17. Just send them an email cuz it isn't on their site yet. They are build up balsa/foam/rubber construction. I'm decking mine out in the incorrect "Raben" scheme of blue and white with the raven on the side. I just love the blue and didn't find out the error until I had the scheme all prepared for... Anyway, it really looks great! I assembled it last night and am still hooking up the control systems. I have an engine kit from dare I need to assemble and paint. I'm wondering if I can get it to spin with the prop... Probably a bad idea, but tempting! I also have a pair of gun kits to put together, so still lots to do.

Franny
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Old 02-18-2006, 08:23 PM   #20
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Hi Tim,

Thanks! I wish the cabain-in-the-butt struts had come out as well... Hey... Did you have a problem with your rudder turning into a pretzel? I think I have it all nice and flat and ten minutes later its a pretzel again... Any Ideas?

Thanks,

Franny
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Old 02-19-2006, 06:16 AM   #21
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i cant tell if yours is laminated...is it?

mine wasnt a problem...maybe the ratio of thickness to radius is making yours squirrely?
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Old 02-20-2006, 02:10 AM   #22
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I guess I meant to say potato chip, not pretzel... Anyway, yes... It is laminated as per the plans: two 1/8 X 1/16 I believe with watered down yellow glue. I'll just keep working with it. Thanks! f
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Old 02-20-2006, 02:22 AM   #23
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hmmm...i have found soaking glue to not be the best plan as wehn it dries it tend to shrink and pull the wood in the direction of the fastest drying portion.

have you tried it with just water?

im almost out of ideas...

Tim
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Old 02-20-2006, 03:39 AM   #24
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Default

Well, what I did was to almost boil the balsa strips in a large pot and then lather them up with the deluted glue. I then worked them into the form for the rudder and let it dry over night. It was nice and straight at first and then when I covered it (using Econocote) I think the iron gave it fits and it warped after it cooled. I think I can work with it for now. I was just wondering for future projects... I think you are right about the pulling as it dries... Oh well; I'm not all that happy with the shape so maybe I'll rebuild it at some point...

f
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Old 02-20-2006, 05:54 PM   #25
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Franny,

I think the problem may be the covering rather than the construction method. If the lamination is completely dry before being removed from the form, then it is unlikely to change shape later.

The Econocote is not suitable for these light models. It has way too much tensile "pull" strength under shrinking. It will deform and destroy structures this light. If you prefer covering in film, then the appropriate material would be Solite (aka Nelson's Lite Film, Solarfilm Lite, ect.) , which weighs 1/3 as much as the Econocote and won't crush the structure when shrinking.

BTW, I find using 3 plies of 1/32" strips to be much easier than 2 plies of 1/16". Especially considering the high density and poor quality of the wood supplied in the Dare kits. A light wetting with ammonia breaks down the lignin in the wood and makes it pliable around some pretty tight curves without breaking. While being lighter than the 2 ply 1/16th, the 3 ply 1/32 outline is still more sturdy than the surrounding structures.
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